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Burma Related News - Feb 07-08, 2003.



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BURMA RELATED NEWS - February 07- 08, 2003.

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HEADLINES

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AP - Aung San Suu Kyi wins $1 million Freedom Forum award

AP - Japan opened door to just 14 foreign refugees last year

AP - Thai prime minister hails first stage in war on drugs as a success

AFP - Drug suppression tops agenda on Thai PM's Myanmar trip

Asian Tribune - Burma: Anti Muslim riots in Katha Township.

Asian Tribune - The fearless first lady of Burma

Asian Times - Thaksin's trip to Myanmar zeroes in on drugs

Bangkok Post - Thai casino gamblers seen flocking to Burma instead

The Nation - Road to Mandalay

The Nation - A crowded agenda for Thaksin's Burma trip

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Aung San Suu Kyi wins $1 million Freedom Forum award

Fri Feb 7,16:16 PM ET

 

WASHINGTON (AP) _ Myanmar's democracy advocate, Aung San Suu Kyi, has been awarded the Freedom Forum's 2002 Al Neuharth Free Spirit of the Year Award, which carries a $ 1 million prize,

 

Neuharth, the forum's founder, and Charles Overby, its chairman, traveled to Myanmar recently to present the award to Suu Kyi. Neuharth gave an account of their meeting in his column Friday in the newspaper USA Today.

 

Suu Kyi received the award for her ``free-spirited, non-violent struggle for human rights and democracy'' in Myanmar, also know as Burma, the forum said. A military dictatorship has ruled the Asian nation since 1962 and the current group of generals came to power in 1988.

 

Winner of the Nobel Peace Prize in 1991, Suu Kyi was put under house arrest by the military in 1989. In 1990 her party, the National League for Democracy, won an overwhelming election victory but the military government refused to recognize the results.

 

Throughout the 1990s Suu Kyi was sporadically held under house arrest, the last period from September 2000 to May 2002. She was released from formal house arrest on May 6, 2002 after strong international pressure and has resumed her efforts to restore democracy.''

 

``I want the people to be able to hold their heads high as free human beings,'' Neuharth quoted her as saying in his account of their meeting in the USA Today newspaper's Friday edition .

 

She said on her most recent trip to the countryside, the military government attempted to disrupt her meeting with fire trucks.

 

``One of the most interesting points of the trip was when the authorities tried to intimidate the public by bringing in fire trucks,'' she said in taped comments to Neuharth and Overby. ``I suppose they meant the people to understand that if they didn't disperse they would be hosed down.''

 

After asking that the engines be removed, she said she climbed on one of the trucks to address the crowd and the vehicle was then moved.

 

Suu Kyi cannot attend a March 20 ceremony in Washington to accept the award because she will not leave the country. Her son, Alexander Aris, who lives outside the country will represent her.

 

``I will never leave until I can return to this country freely,'' Suu Kyi said.

 

The first winner of the forum's award in 1992 was Terry Anderson, chief Middle East correspondent for the Associated Press, who spent nearly seven years as a hostage in Lebanon. The Freedom Forum is a nonpartisan foundation dedicated to free press and free speech.

 

Martin O'Malley & Owen Wood, CBC News Online

Updated: May 6, 2002

 

Aung San Suu Kyi is the daughter of one of Burma's most cherished heroes, the martyred General Aung San, who led his country's fight for independence from Great Britain in the 1940s and was killed for his beliefs in 1947. Suu Kyi has equaled her father's heroics with her calm but passionate advocacy of freedom and democracy in the country now called Myanmar, a name chosen by one of the most insensitive and brutal military dictatorships in the world.

 

The ruling junta ? "political party" would be too generous a concession ? goes by the Orwellian name of the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC). Burma, or Myanmar, has a population of 45 million and is Southeast Asia's second largest country (in area) after Indonesia.

 

The news event that brought Suu Kyi back into prominence in May 2002 was her release from 19 months of house arrest in her barricaded villa in Yangon, formerly Rangoon. The United Nations helped to negotiate her release this time.

 

There was outrage around the world in 2000 when Suu Kyi tried to leave Yangon, only to be thwarted by authorities. In August of that year Suu Kyi, her driver and 14 members of her pro-democracy party were confined in two cars on the side of the road outside of Yangon. She endured a similar roadside standoff for 13 days in 1998, during which time she suffered severe dehydration and had to be returned to her home by ambulance.

 

Suu Kyi (pronounced Soo Chee) was two years old when her father ? the de facto prime minister of newly independent Burma ? was assassinated. Though a Buddhist ? the predominant religion of Burma ? she was educated at Catholic schools and left for India in her mid-teens with her mother, who became the Burmese ambassador to India. Suu Kyi went to England where she studied at Oxford University. There she met Michael Aris, the Tibetan scholar whom she married. They had two sons, Alexander and Kim.

 

A watershed in her life was 1988, when Suu Kyi received a call from Burma that her mother had suffered a stroke and did not have long to live. Suu Kyi returned to Burma, leaving her husband and two children behind in England, having cautioned them years earlier that duty may one day call her back to her homeland.

 

She arrived back in Burma to nurse her mother at a time of a burgeoning pro-democracy movement, fueled by the energy and idealism among the country's young people. There were demonstrations against the repressive, one-party socialist government. Suu Kyi was drawn into the pro-democracy movement, which was snuffed out by SLORC, which seized power on September 18, 1988. Thousands of pro-democracy advocates were killed.

 

Next came a general election in 1990, which political parties were allowed to contest. Suu Kyi headed the National League for Democracy (NLD), which won a landslide victory, with 80 per cent support. This was not be tolerated by the SLORC leaders, who refused to recognize the election results. Worse, SLORC put the elected pro-democracy leaders under house arrest, including Suu Kyi.

 

Despite the restrictions of house arrest, Suu Kyi continued to campaign for democracy, and for this she won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1991.

 

One of Suu Kyi's most dramatic speeches was in 1995, soon after she was released from nearly six years of house arrest, when she spoke to a global women's conference in Beijing. She didn't appear at the conference, but spoke to the international gathering by means of a video smuggled out of Burma. Suu Kyi always expresses herself with calm conviction and calm passion, which reflects her Buddhist upbringing. She is Gandhian in her synergistic mixture of force and restraint.

 

In her speech, she said, "?to the best of my knowledge, no war was ever started by women. But it is women and children who have always suffered the most in situations of conflict." She mentioned "the war toys of grown men." Without specifically targeting her SLORC opponents, but her words dripping with gentle sarcasm, Suu Kyi went on to say:

 

"There is an outmoded Burmese proverb still recited by men, who wish to deny that women too can play a part in bringing necessary change and progress to their society: 'The dawn rises only when the rooster crows.' But Burmese people today are well aware of the scientific reason behind the rising of dawn and the falling of dusk. And the intelligent rooster surely realizes that it is because dawn comes that it crows and not the other way around.

 

"It crows to welcome the light that has come to relieve the darkness of night. It is not the prerogative of men alone to bring light to the world: women with their capacity for compassion and self-sacrifice, their courage and perseverance, have done much to dissipate the darkness of intolerance and hate, suffering and despair."

 

It was a powerful speech, subtly crafted for the targeted audience in her homeland.

 

In 1999, Michael Aris, was dying of prostate cancer in England, where he lived with their two sons. He had repeatedly requested permission to visit his wife one last time before he died, but the SLORC authorities denied him entry, arguing that there are no proper facilities in the country to tend to a dying man. They suggested instead that Suu Kyi visit him in England. She refused, fearing if she ever left the country she would never be allowed to return.

 

The day Aris died, on his 53rd birthday on March 27, 1999, Suu Kyi honoured the occasion at her home in Rangoon, with 1,000 friends and supporters, including high-ranking diplomats from Europe and the United States. As part of a ceremony, she offered food and saffron robes to 53 Buddhist monks, one for each year of her husband's life. The monks recited prayers and chanted sutras. Instead of wearing her usual bright flowers and wreathes of jasmine, Suu Kyi chose instead a traditional black lungi with a white jacket. She cried only when one of the monks reminded the audience that the essence of Buddhism is to treat suffering with equanimity.

 

The police did not stop the supporters from visiting Suu Kyi in her time of grief. But they took the names and addresses of all those who attended at the service to honour the husband from whom she had been separated since she left England to tend to her dying mother.

Japan opened door to just 14 foreign refugees last year

Fri Feb 7,06:04 PM ET

 

TOKYO (AP) _ Japan opened its doors to just 14 foreign refugees last year, down from a meager 26 the year before, the Justice Ministry announced Friday.

 

The refugees included six from Afghanistan, but details about the others could not be disclosed for security reasons, a ministry official said on condition of anonymity.

 

Japan selected them from 250 applicants from, among elsewhere, Turkey, Myanmar, Pakistan and China, the official said.

 

By comparison, roughly 100,000 refugees from Afghanistan alone sought shelter in the European Union last fall, and hundreds of thousands apply there every year.

 

Last year's applicant tally in Japan was 103 fewer than 2001, the official said.

 

Although their applications for refugee status were turned down, 40 additional people were allowed to stay in Japan on humanitarian grounds, the official said.

 

Refugees may live in Japan as long as they wish, but the others must get periodic government approval to extend their stay.

 

Japan is often criticized for being too reluctant to accept refugees. It has approved about 305 people in all as refugees, or 13.6 percent of the total number of applicants, since 1982, when Japan began a refugee designation system.

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Thai prime minister hails first stage in war on drugs as a success

Fri Feb 7,10:52 PM ET

 

BANGKOK, Thailand (AP) _ Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra on Saturday hailed the first five days of his all-out war on drugs as a success, despite concerns raised by human rights groups that 74 suspects reportedly killed so far could point to summary executions by police.

 

Concerned by the massive flow of stimulant methamphetamines from neighboring Myanmar, Thaksin has given security forces three months beginning Feb. 1 to rid the country of illegal substances.

 

``Drugs have infiltrated all parts of society so I have to use strict measures. If we don't use strict measures we won't make it,'' Thaksin said Saturday during his weekly radio address.

 

Thaksin said the campaign has already netted 5,700 suspects, 3.8 million speed pills and 129 million baht (US$3 million) in seized assets.

 

He did not mention the killing of suspected traffickers, but English-language The Nation newspaper said 74 suspects had been killed by police and hit men from drug syndicates since the campaign was launched.

 

Human rights groups have said they feared the high number of deaths could indicate summary executions by police. They noted the government has publicly threatened to kill suspected drug dealers and offered high rewards.

 

Thaksin said he would also ask his Cabinet to approve higher rewards to police who make seizures of drugs and assets of traffickers.

 

``I have to encourage the authorities with increased rewards so that those who are good feel encouraged and those who think they might do bad might think it is better to earn a reward than a bribe,'' he said.

 

The prime minister said the drug issue would be discussed during his two-day visit to Myanmar, also known as Burma, which begins Sunday. Myanmar's military rulers deny involvement in the trade but are allied with the United Wa State Army, an ethnic Wa group the U.S. government describes as one of the world's top drug trafficking organizations.

 

The Thai Health Ministry estimates that more than 3 million of the country's 64 million people are consuming methamphetamines.

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Saturday February 8, 10:19 AM

Drug suppression tops agenda on Thai PM's Myanmar trip

 

BANGKOK, Feb 8 (AFP) - Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra is set to address a raft of sensitive issues with neighbour Myanmar, including anti-drugs cooperation, when he visits the military-ruled state from Sunday.

 

The status of illegal migrant workers, ethnic minorities and economic relations will also figure prominently in talks with junta leaders during his official but low-key two-day visit, his second to the country since taking office two years ago.

 

"Anti-drugs cooperation will top his agenda," a senior government official told AFP.

 

Thaksin is to broach comprehensive drugs suppression measures, hoping to persuade Yangon to sponsor crop substitution and commit to launching joint border patrols to stem the rising tide of heroin and, more recently, amphetamine pills flowing across the border into Thailand.

 

Thaksin has said he would seek a clear stance from Myanmar concerning the mushrooming clandestine drug factories along the Thai-Myanmar border in areas controlled by ethnic militia such as the United Wa State Army.

 

"Of course I will raise the problem of drug factories on the border and make clear the problem must be solved," the premier said recently.

 

Thaksin's trip comes days after his government launched an all-out three-month war on drugs hoping to completely eradicate the scourge domestically, especially the trafficking of methamphetamines.

 

Thailand's army said recently it was braced for a record influx of up to one billion methamphetamine pills brought in from Myanmar this year, up from an estimated 700 million last year.

 

A second senior Thai official said the trip was also "aimed at strengthening relations after the border incident last year and to show Thai sincerity in solving all types of problems as well as cooperation with the Myanmar government."

 

Bilateral ties between the historic enemies were strained to the limit last May when deadly border clashes led Myanmar to accuse Thailand of assisting rebels fighting its troops.

 

Thaksin, whose administration has focused its foreign policy on solidifying relations with its neighbours, ordered a series of fence-mending trips by senior officials since the border crisis.

 

Thailand's Nation newspaper called Thaksin's visit "a litmus test of his soft approach -- a make or break trip."

 

Thaksin has said he will raise with Myanmar's leaders the issue of lingering ethnic conflict and seek to persuade Yangon to begin negotiations with remaining ethnic groups opposed to its rule.

 

Thaksin is due to meet Sunday with the country's ruler, State Peace and Development Council chairman Senior General Than Shwe, and with first secretary Lieutenant General Khin Nyunt Monday.

 

The premier has no plans to travel to the capital Yangon, where a more formal forum would await him and where human rights watchdog Amnesty International is concluding its first-ever visit to the country.

 

It also effectively precludes Thaksin from meeting opposition leaders such as Aung San Suu Kyi, the Nobel peace laureate released last year from house arrest.

 

The official itinerary would send the delegation to the northern mountain town of Putao, in Kachin state, to assess the potential for tourism there.

 

The official talks are set for the beach resort of Ngapali on the Bay of Bengal, some 275 kilometres (170 miles) northwest of Yangon.

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Asian Tribune

Date : 2003-02-08

Burma: Anti Muslim riots in Katha Township.

 

This is the first information received relating to the anti Muslim riots that occurred in Katha Township on the 24th and 25th January.

 

The Araby High School in Inywa, Katha Township, Sagaing Division was established over thirty years ago with classes from the infant to the tenth standard and about 125 boarders. Moolvi Chit Than is the principal and his assistant is Moolvi Aung Min. The staff consists of 9 teachers, 21 clerks, and one cook and a total of 126 students.

 

There are 11 buildings accommodating teachers and students, 1 mosque, 2 classrooms, 1 engine room, 1 cookhouse, 1 sick room, 1 bath house and 10 latrines.

 

It is alleged that Maung Myo Thant, a resident of Myoma Ward, Inywa, student of this school had a clandestine meeting with his sweetheart, resident of Shwebontha Ward, Inywa on Tuesday, the 22nd January 2003.

 

The following day (Wednesday 23rd January 2003) this girl was meeting another boy at night and were harassed by Maung Myo Thant and a group of youths from the locality. Maung Myo Thant was taken away to the police station that night but was released the next morning. The residents were discontented.

 

The students reported the events of the previous night to their principal. They were made to assemble and warned by the deputy head not to leave the school premises unnecessarily.

 

At about half past one in the afternoon, the Inywa YaYaKa asked U Hamid (School Committee Chairman) to forbid the students from going outside the school compound. If they needed to buy tea or pan it should be purchased for them by the people outside and brought to them.

 

At 6:30 p.m. the School Committee Chairman, Chairman of the YaYaKa, and Police constable Mr. Ahpulay went to the school because they had received a report that about 7, 8, 9 or 10 students were planning to cause damage to the school. The students were forbidden to go outside and told to dress in longyis, not pants. Security and a military were posted at the gate and around the school compound.

 

At 8 p.m. a mob had gathered in the town and were shouting - ? To kill the Kalas(Muslims) ? our business. Extinction of the Kalas (Muslims)- our business?

 

About 100 houses belonging to Muslims in Aleyat Ward were stoned and damaged. Another 7 houses including U Hamid?s and Daw Ma Ma?s (School Committee Chairman) were looted and set ablaze.

 

The mob, armed with fire rings, torches, axes, and hatchets first and foremost destroyed and burnt down the engine room, then set fire to the mosque and the residential buildings. At the same time, the students were attacked and beaten up.

 

The next day (25th) about 60 Muslim houses in the upper area of the town were attacked and looted.

 

Of the 125 boarders attending the Muslim school most were young. They fled for their lives when the place was set on fire. Jewelry, money, furniture were looted and carted away from the houses that were looted including that of the School Chairman. The new and old structures of the Araby Muslim school, the houses of the teachers, the store house, computer, typewriters, books, furniture ? everything was destroyed. Total value amounts to one thousand lakhs.

 

The Police were fully aware of the situation prior to the riots. During the fire, the Police Commissioner U Kyi Nyunt was in Inywa. He did nothing to prevent the destruction of the houses and the school, but he was safe and secure in the High School premises near by. The truth of the matter is that the people are in dire straits because the cost of rice has raised to 500 kyat a pyi.

 

On the 26th January, about fifty Araby School students and Muslims of the village were permitted to shelter in the compound of the Inywa High School. To date only 90 students have been located. The rest are missing.

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Asian Tribune

Date : 2003-02-08

The fearless first lady of Burma

 

Rangoon, Burma, Feb. 06: She's 5-foot-3-inches small and weighs less than 100 pounds. But every ounce of freedom advocate Aung San Suu Kyi radiates respect for human rights and dignity. We visited with this Nobel Peace Prize winner in the modest family home in which she was held under house arrest for over six years by Burma's military dictatorship. She was released last May, after intense international pressure.

 

Her "crime": She and her National League for Democracy party won an overwhelming election victory. The military thugs who run this country of 48 million people refused to recognize the election results.

 

Since last year's lifting of her confinement, the "First Lady" of Burma fearlessly has resumed rallying her people peacefully in behalf of freedom and democracy. Young people predominate as crowds of tens of thousands cheer the 57-year-old.

 

Foreign journalists are banned in Burma, so we came clandestinely to present Ms. Suu Kyi a $1 million "Free Spirit" award from our international Freedom Forum foundation.

 

The only wall decoration in her sparsely-furnished living room is a huge 8-foot-by-12-foot painting of her father, the late Gen. Aung San. He was assassinated in 1947, two months before he was to become the first prime minister of then independent Burma. In her own words, headlines of what keeps this delicate-looking, dignified, soft-spoken but steely-spined woman going:

 

"I want the people of Burma to be able to hold their heads high as free humanbeings."

 

"I would especially like the richness of spirit of our young people to soar to meet all challenges."

 

If Ms. Suu Kyi could achieve those goals in her lifetime, she would transform an enslaved Burma, which the military now calls Myanmar, into a beacon for the world.

 

- Florida.Com - Editorial Page -

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Asia Times

Thaksin's trip to Myanmar zeroes in on drugs

By Marwaan Macan-Markar

Feb 8, 2003

 

BANGKOK - Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra's scheduled visit to Myanmar on Sunday will be pivotal for his newly launched crusade against drugs here at home, since that neighboring country is the font from where the narcotics flow.

 

In the days ahead of his departure, Thaksin has not played down this connection, given his plans to make the trafficking of drugs along the Thailand-Myanmar border a central feature of his talks with Yangon's military junta.

 

"I will discuss the drugs issues with the Burmese to work out joint measures against drug trafficking along the border," the premier was quoted as saying in Thursday's Bangkok Post, an English-language daily.

 

It is a position that is being warmly received here for two reasons: no Thai prime minister until Thaksin has made the drug problem a key focus in talks with the Myanmar government and, in doing so, he is being perceived as one determined to triumph in the war on drugs.

 

"This is the first time that a Thai prime minister has made the drug issue a main theme for the talks with the Burmese government," said Chayachoke Chulasiriwongs, head of the international-relations department at Bangkok's Chulalongkorn University. "It will go well with the domestic campaign that has been launched" this month.

 

Yet Thaksin faces a daunting challenge on this international front, given the amount of narcotics, largely amphetamine pills, that are produced in Myanmar and sold in Thailand. According to official figures, the supply ranges from 500 million to 700 million amphetamine pills a year.

 

What is more, Yangon's military rulers have a "very convenient relationship" with the drug lords in the country, said a Myanmese exile in Thailand who spoke on condition of anonymity. "The drug traffickers have invested their profits in hotels, transport services and in construction."

 

The best-known group in the drug trade is the United Wa State Army (UWSA), which belongs to a Myanmese ethnic community and operates out of Shan state, along the Thai border.

 

The uninterrupted flow of drugs from the UWSA has been blamed for amphetamine addiction attaining unprecedented heights in Thailand over recent years. This Southeast Asian country currently has the highest percentage of the population in the world that abuses amphetamines, states the United Nations Office on Drug Control and Crime Prevention. In Thailand, which has 62 million people, as many as one in 17, or 5.9 percent, of Thais aged 15 and above are reported to be abusers of amphetamines, says the UNDCP.

 

According to newspaper reports here, there are more than 600,000 students across the country, from primary schools to universities, who are drug addicts.

 

The number of people treated for methamphetamine or ya ba, a type of amphetamine, has been rising sharply in Thailand. The proportion of methamphetamine cases rose from 0.2 percent of all treatment demand in 1990 to 46 percent in 2000, according to the Thailand Narcotics Annual Report 2001.

 

It is this reality that triggered Thaksin's anti-drugs crusade, under which he gave the police three months, from February to April, to mount an intense crackdown to rid the country of drugs.

 

"This is a good strategy, because it is being enforced across the country, so there is no getting away from one province to another," said Chart Chai, deputy secretary general of the Narcotics Control Board. "Earlier, it was only done in a few provinces in the north.

 

"The prime minister has also warned that bad officials, those who let the drug traffickers get away, will be punished," he added. "A monitoring system has been set up by the government to evaluate performances."

 

In the first week of this anti-drug crusade, the Thai public has witnessed dramatic results: more than 1,000 dealers and producers were arrested and more than 3,000 people in the drug trade turned themselves in. Over last weekend, according to some reports, the police seized more than 700,000 methamphetamine pills.

 

But there has been a darker side to this act of social cleansing - charges by human-rights defenders and some journalists of police abuse, resulting in what they call a steadily spreading reign of terror.

 

"The government policy is calling for the suppression and elimination of people suspected to be in the drug trade by any means," said Jaran Ditapichai, a member of the national Human Rights Commission. "Some suspects have been killed through extrajudicial methods."

 

On the first day of the Thai government's war on drugs, four drug suspects were shot dead. In Sakhon Nakhon, a province in northeastern Thailand, one police station had a macabre message for drug traffickers, wrote Thepchai Yong in a column in Tuesday's English-language The Nation newspaper.

 

They "piled up a dozen donated coffins in front of their office as a warning to drug traffickers: Stop or end up in one of them," he said. "It's rather obvious that the police in many areas, under pressure from their superiors to 'perform,' have resorted to extrajudicial killings to show results."

 

But these voices of concern are no match in volume to the groundswell of public support Thaksin's anti-drug crusade has received so far. According to a poll conducted this week in the Thai capital by the Bangkok-based Assumption University, 84.2 percent of the 1,412 people questioned backed the government's campaign.

 

(Inter Press Service)

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Bangkok Post - Saturday 08 February 2003

Thai casino gamblers seen flocking to Burma instead

Wassana Nanuam

 

The closure of the Thai-Cambodian border after last week's riots in Phnom Penh has prompted many Thai gamblers to shift from casinos in Cambodia to ones in Burma.

 

Defence Minister Gen Thammarak Isarangkura na Ayudhaya said the border closure had partly caused Thai gamblers to flock to casinos in Burma.

 

``Thais who are addicted to gambling but cannot visit casinos in Cambodia will now have to go to Burma because they can't live without gambling,'' he said.

 

They would be asked to refrain from gambling in Burma for their own safety, but no one can force them not to do so. Today's border reopening would be limited to one-day visits to Thailand by Cambodians to buy goods, he said.

 

Burapa, Suranaree and Chanthaburi-Trat task forces overseeing the border with Cambodia would continue their crackdown on Cambodian people residing illegally in Thailand.

 

Though it had to react in a tough manner to the rioting in Phnom Penh, Thailand still regarded Cambodia as a neighbour since many Cambodian people were kind to Thais.

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The Nation

Road to Mandalay

Phoowadon Duangmee

Published on Feb 8, 2003

 

By the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin' eastward to the sea,

 

There's a Burma girl a-settin', and I know she thinks o' me;

 

For the wind is in the palm trees, and the temple-bells they say:

 

'Come you back, you British soldier; come you back to Mandalay!'

 

- From 'Mandalay' by Rudyard Kipling (1892)

 

It's been 110 years since British writer Rudyard Kipling wrote this poem that described the beauty of Mandalay's women and the enchantment of its setting on the banks of the Irrawaddy. Things have changed considerably since then, and yet, even after a century the poem still has a certain resonance.

 

Sheltered from mass tourism for many years the delights of Mandalay are once more being discovered, helped by a new direct flight from Bangkok. As you fly in, a quilt of brown and red earth is laid out below, dotted with a few small trees. One wonders if this is central Burma or a desert in China.

 

"Journalist!" exclaims a stony-faced, sarong-wearing immigration officer as he leafs though my passport and then passes it on to his colleague, who is peering intently at my friend's documents.

 

"He is a journalist too," says the colleague accusingly. They are edgy and suspicious.

 

The two officers then step out from behind the counter and take in the 30 or so people waiting to be processed. Then it dawns on them: They are all journalists! Their animated Burmese is beyond me, but their horrified expressions suggest that their embassy staff in Bangkok have some explaining to do.

 

"Yes, we all are journalists. But we're travel writers, not political reporters," I say, trying to smooth things out. It doesn't work. The officers don't see a difference; to them a journalist is a journalist. But we have the visas and they reluctantly allow us through.

 

Mandalay, which lies 700 kilometres north of Rangoon, was founded by King Mindo Min in 1856 when he moved here from the old capital in Amarapura. It was also Burma's last capital before the British took over.

 

The truth is, this 147-year-old city has had it rough. At first, you feel as if Mandalay has given up - too tired and too old to bother any more. Even the locals have a weary look. But then, when your government has been beating you into submission for the past 40-odd years, and your entire economy lies in tatters, that's to be expected.

 

The city was hit badly by a fearsome earthquake in 1883 that damaged many pagodas and monasteries. Two years later, the British took over. The Japanese bombed the city in 1942 causing considerable damage, and three years later the Royal Palace was burned to the ground when British and Indian troops tried to oust the Japanese.

 

The Burmese junta has attempted to bring back the glory days by reconstructing the Royal Palace. Unfortunately, though a stunning and grandiose backdrop for travel photos, the palace lacks heart and soul.

 

Mandalay comes to life very early with locals heading out to the markets and small coffee shops. Bicycles, horse-drawn carts, small Burmese pick-ups and antique buses are the means of transport. It's a delightful scene, free of mass tourism.

 

A visit to Zeicho Market on 84th Street offers household products and "trendy" cosmetics, but more interesting is the large open-air market, a couple of streets away.

 

Huge piles of banana, unknown local fruits, flowers, and sacks of colourful spice powders are lined up along the pavement. The sharp scent of burning cheroots makes an interesting mix with "tanaka" - a herb-based powder most Burmese use as a cosmetic.

 

Two little florist girls in the market giggle when I ask if a small bunch of green leaves are edible. One girl shakes her head quickly, and puts the leaves into her palms, as if to make a "wai". It's a cute moment: strolling around a market in a foreign land allows one to behave a little ridiculously. The locals like it. It provides entertainment.

 

"Hello. What your name?" asks a Burmese monk in his broken English, as he approaches me in the middle of the market.

 

It seems the monk wants to practice English with tourists because he is holding a small notebook. He looks at my face for a second, and then tries another question.

 

"Where you from?"

 

"I am from Thailand. I am a tourist," I speak slowly, if not clearly, to help him understand my English.

 

"Thailand is rich. Myanmar is poor. You handsome. Gib me one dollar," he says, revealing his real intention.

 

Our English lesson is over.

 

As the Tatmadaw and the political junta, the SPDC, continue to rule Burma with an iron fist, economic sanctions have left a rich country desperately poor. The business of living is a daily struggle.

 

"Many people have become monks," says our local guide, Sai Yee Kyawk. "It's become normal for them to approach tourists for money in Mandalay."

 

Mandalay has a population of around 800,000. More than 250,000 of them are monks. You see them everywhere on the streets, the public buses - and the tourist attractions.

 

Southwest of Mandalay is the shrine of Mahamuni Paya (Great Sage Pagoda), that houses the large Mahamuni Buddha image, believed to have been cast in the 1st century AD. The locals claim that the earlier you visit the shrine to pay homage, the more merit you gain, and every morning at 4am hundreds of devotees arrive to chant until after dawn.

 

Right behind the shrine is a small building with six bronze Khmer figures. Three are lions, two are male warriors, and one is Erawan - the three-headed elephant. It's said that these figures were originally cast at Angkor Wat in Cambodia, and brought to Ayutthaya in 1431. When the Burmese occupied Ayutthaya in 1564, they took the figures to Pegu - then the capital of Burma. In 1663, the sculptures were nabbed by King Razagyi of Rakhiang. They were finally brought to Mandalay along with the Mahamuni Buddha.

 

Apart from the pagoda tours, there's plenty to see in Mandalay. "If you look at the city map, you can see that the British were pretty good at city planning," says a Thai expat who runs a restaurant in Amarapura, 25 kilometres south west of Mandalay. "The city looks like a giant chess board and makes it easy to explore. Houses, schools, stores and most of the palaces are in the centre."

 

Nonetheless, the Burmese have been trying very hard to rid themselves of the British shadow. The Burmese, who once drove on the left like the British, now drive on the right but in second-hand Japanese cars designed for driving on the left.

 

Overtaking is a death-defying act that often fails in its defiance.

 

"The government changed the rules just to do something different than the British," says Ko Tun Oo, while driving us to Zeicho morning market.

 

For locals, it might be worth the hassle, as driving on any side of the road at least gives them a bit of freedom. But for us, it wasn't worth the risk on the roads to Mandalay. From then on, it was trishaws.

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The Nation

A crowded agenda for Thaksin's Burma trip

Supalak Ganjanakhundee

Don Pathan

Published on Feb 7, 2003

 

Hard pressed by an influx of narcotics from Burma and running out of patience, Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra is visiting Rangoon on Sunday. It will be a litmus test of his soft approach - a make-or-break trip.

 

Beside putting his "good neighbour" policy on line, Thaksin's February 9-10 visit to Burma will determine the future of Thai-Burmese cooperation in such areas as narcotics, migrant workers and economic relations.

 

At the start of his administration, the premier had come out forcefully. Overlooking the possibility that his country may be losing its moral authority, Thaksin was convinced that his brand of diplomacy would force the Burmese to do things his way.

 

Today, Thaksin finds himself in a corner. The premier is left with a constant reminder that after two years of fence-mending trips by himself and his lieutenants, coupled with olive branches extended to the junta, his Burma policy has not produce the desired outcome.

 

To come out and change tack now would amount to admitting defeat, which critics said is not in his nature.

 

Indeed, the mood today is a far cry from the show of force that the premier put on when he assumed the premiership two years ago. Officials still talk about how the Chiang Rai drug seminar two years ago raised their eyebrows when slides of Burma's security chief General Khin Nyunt, along with large hauls of drugs confiscated from Burmese drug lords, were shown to the packed house of officials.

 

But today it's business as usual. Drugs, insurgencies, overlapping claims, refugees and illegal migrants remain the fundamental problems that continue to define, and plague, Thai-Burmese relations.

 

The United Wa State Army (UWSA), a pro-Rangoon group which Thailand has declared public enemy number one, is crowding the Thai border with more then ten thousand troops. The 20,000-strong army is looking to further expand its stronghold bordering Thailand by forcibly relocating more peasants from areas along the Chinese border and resettling them in newly-built towns bordering Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.

 

The total number of villagers being relocated from the Wa-controlled area to areas along the Thai border should reach 100,000 by this year, said Bao Yu-xiang, chairman of the UWSA in a recent interview with The Nation.

 

The Thai Army and drug agencies say millions of methamphetamines cheaply produced in UWSA's clandestine labs continue to flood Thailand on a weekly basis, while academics say the Burmese generals must be held accountable for the illicit drug-production of the cease-fire groups.

 

Analysts say Burma's problems are internal and linked to its political structure. And unless a political solution between the junta and the minority groups can be reached, Thailand will continue to bear the burden as these problems spill over the border.

 

Analysts point out that although only a handful of armed rebel groups still exist in Burma, those that came under Burma's so-called "legal fold" have still not established a permanent peace with the generals. They are still armed and, in many respects, remain a security threat to the military regime.

 

In his upcoming visit, Thaksin will be pushing the Burmese generals to designate border areas from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Rai as "drug free" zones.

 

"The idea is to seal your own border in the same manner that was used to starve out Khun Sa and his Mong Tai Army," said a senior military officer who spoke on condition of anonymity.

 

The Thai government is banking on the notion that Rangoon will have little choice but to cooperate because of enormous domestic and foreign pressure. Whether this will translate into Burma taking military action against the well-armed UWSA remains to be seen.

 

There have been suggestions that Thaksin will have to bring up Burma's internal problems on the grounds that these problems directly affect Thailand.

 

The previous Thai administration had also employed this tactic, known at the time as "constructive intervention", but it rubbed not only Burma but fellow Asean members the wrong way. The regional grouping has a tradition of not washing its dirty linen in public.

 

There have been suggestions that a "carrot and stick" approach be employed but few are convinced that the Burmese generals will fall for such a scheme.

 

Like any other authoritarian leadership, the Burmese, say analysts, are very solid and united when it comes to any negotiations.

 

Although the nature of Thai-Burmese relations has changed little over the past two years, Thaksin will not find the same old Burma that he visited the last time around.

 

Over the past two years, Rangoon has worked hard to improve its bilateral ties with Beijing, while at the same time reaching out to India, Pakistan and Bangladesh to diversify their relations.

 

And in spite of the enormous pressure from the West, Burma's regional standing is much more secure then what it was two years ago - with or without Thailand's help.