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Burma Related News - June 06, 2001.



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BURMA RELATED NEWS - June 06, 2001. 
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HEADLINE
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AP - Thailand Distorts It's Own History With Myanmar-Analysts
Reuters - Thai police get tough on illegal immigrant workers
Reuters - Myanmar textbook calls Thais lazy pleasure-seekers
FT - Labour group to assess Burma
NSTP - Illegal alien driving bogus Telekom van to ferry Myanmars busted
TI - Myanmar dissidents demand scrutiny of failed talks
Bkk Post - Burmese columnist panned for misinterpreting facts
The Nation - Views on freedom of _expression_
The Nation - Twisted view of history
Xinhuanet - Myanmar's Bilateral Trade With ASEAN Members Up
Xinhuanet - Myanmar Calls For Enhanced Cooperation to Overcome Environmental Problems
Xinhuanet - Myanmar Leader Stresses Need for Strong Armed Forces
IHT - Burma Sanctions Sputter 
TIE - Into Myanmar on tonga, rocking with Kareena
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Wednesday June 6, 3:30 PM
Thailand Distorts It's Own History With Myanmar-Analysts
BANGKOK (AP)--Thailand is equally guilty of distorting history concerning its neighbors, analysts said Wednesday after Myanmar published a new fourth-grade textbook that portrayed Thais as lazy and servile.
Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, apparently hoping to prevent a new war of words with Myanmar, or Burma, declined to comment on the book and urged both sides to stop trading angry words.
 
"Myanmar is very sensitive to news reports from Thailand, so the best thing for both sides it to stop trading accusations and let the leaders settle matters," Thaksin told reporters.
 
The Education Ministry in Myanmar introduced the 12-page history textbook supplement for the 2001-2002 academic year in state-run schools that reopened Monday.
 
One section of the book says: "Thai people are given to fun and appreciation of beauty. They are disinclined to self-reliance and hard work."
 
The textbook was published as Thai-Myanmar relations are at their lowest level in years, principally over Thailand's accusations that Myanmar's ruling military junta aids drug traffickers.
 
Myanmar denies the charge and accuses Thailand of supporting anti-government rebels. Their arguments have sparked frequent border skirmishes since January.
 
Myanmar history expert Sunait Chutintranon warned that the textbook will have a lasting impact on bilateral relations if young Burmese were "taught to hate the Thais."
 
But Sunait and other experts said Thailand must also stop portraying its neighbors in a negative light in its textbooks and movies.
 
"In Thai history textbooks, we talk about our neighbors as our enemies. We only tell stories of wars that we won and made people of neighboring countries our slaves. From now on we should put other aspects in our textbooks," Sunait told ITV television network.
 
Thai textbooks portray medieval Myanmar kings as thieves who only wanted to loot Siam, as Thailand was formerly called.
 
"In a way, the Myanmar textbook is a quid pro quo," said Sulak Sivaraksa, a leading Thai social critic.
 
He said the textbook may be a Myanmar government effort to deflect attention from its own troubles - a weak economy, accusations of human rights abuses and international pressure to allow a return of civilian rule.
 
"The (Myanmar) government is very weak right now and they need to find a common enemy. I feel sorry for them," Sulak said.
 
He said he didn't believe the Myanmar people would be influenced by the textbooks issued by their "oppressive government."
 
"It's very simple. In Burma nobody takes the government texts seriously. The Burmese people are a lovely people and, on the whole, they like the Thais," he said.
 
"Thailand and Myanmar should be more open to each other in terms of culture and academic knowledge exchange," said Kraisak Choonhavan, a senator and a proponent of better relations with Myanmar.
 
"We cannot change history, but we can make it based on truth," he said.
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Wednesday June 6, 9:03 PM
Thai police get tough on illegal immigrant workers
 
BANGKOK, June 6 (Reuters) - Thai police said on Wednesday they were launching a nationwide crackdown on illegal immigrant workers, aiming to drive almost a million of them, mostly from Indochinese neighbours, out of Thailand by 2005.
 
Deputy national police chief Sant Sarutanonda told reporters the national police force was asking the Ministry of Labour to import legal workers from Cambodia and Laos to replace the illegal ones doing dirty and dangerous jobs.
 
"We want to get rid of illegal workers within four years. After that we think the Ministry of Labour should liaise with the government of Laos and Cambodia to bring in legitimate labour," Sant told reporters.
 
"If we don't address the problem now, we would face a minority problem like our neighbours," he said referring to Myanmar.
 
Sant said since January Thai police had arrested and deported about 120,000 illegal workers, mainly from Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, and South Asia.
 
There is no official figure on how many illegal immigrants are working in Thailand, but authorities estimate the number could be close to one million.
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Wednesday June 6, 8:56 PM
Myanmar textbook calls Thais lazy pleasure-seekers
 
BANGKOK (Reuters) - Thai-Myanmar relations soured further on Wednesday with the distribution of a compulsory Myanmar school textbook which describes Thais as lazy, opportunistic and pleasure-seeking.
 
"They have little desire to depend on themselves and very little interest in violence or hard work," a chapter on the Thai national character says.
 
"Thai people are characterised by indulging in beauty and pleasure," it says.
 
Myanmar's exiled democracy movement apologised for the textbook, while Thailand called it a "misunderstanding" that could harm already strained bilateral ties.
 
Relations between the two Southeast Asian nations -- enemies for centuries -- have been deteriorating over the past few months following a series of clashes on their 2,400-km (1,490 mile) border.
 
Thailand accuses Myanmar of fostering a booming cross-border drugs trade, while Myanmar says Thailand is encouraging unrest among its many ethnic minorities.
 
The text book, which will be compulsory for students between the ages of nine and 14 years, particularly criticises what it says is Thailand's "bend with the wind" foreign policy.
 
One chapter, which focuses on the future of bilateral relations, says Thailand is a "bad neighbour" which has the wrong attitudes toward the country.
 
Thai Foreign Minister Surakiart Sathirathai said on Wednesday he had not taken any diplomatic action over the book but would raise the issue when he met Myanmar leaders.
 
"Creating misunderstanding is not healthy for the relations of the people of both countries," he said.
 
He said Thailand thought the textbook content was an incorrect interpretation of history, but that the issue was ultimately a domestic one.
 
Myanmar's foreign minister Win Aung is scheduled to pay an official visit to Thailand during June. Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra has also said he plans to visit Myanmar soon to improve bilateral ties.
 
"We would like to apologise to the people of Thailand for the publication of the textbook," the Bangkok-based All Burma Students' Democratic Front said in a statement.
 
"We deeply regret this and would like to state that this is not the view of the people of Burma (Myanmar)."
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Financial Times
Labour group to assess Burma
By Frances Williams in Geneva
Published: June 5 2001 15:56GMT | Last Updated: June 5 2001 17:52GMT
 
Burma has agreed to a visit by a high-level International Labour Organisation team in September to conduct "an objective assessment" of the impact of measures taken by the military junta to end forced labour.
 
The move, announced in a report to the ILO's annual conference which opened on Tuesday, is expected to dampen calls at the conference for tougher action against Burma, which has repeatedly flouted ILO and human rights conventions banning the practice.
 
Last November, the ILO urged its 174 members, including trade union and employer representatives, and other international bodies to "review their relations" with Burma to ensure they were not abetting forced labour.
 
Rangoon issued a decree last October instructing local officials to stop using conscript workers but human rights organisations claim villagers are still being forced to work unpaid on construction and agricultural projects or for the army. 
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The New Straits Times Press
PADANG BESAR
Illegal alien driving bogus Telekom van to ferry Myanmars busted
by Shahrum Sayuthi
06 June 2001
 
An attempt by an illegal immigrant agent to disguise his van as a Telekom Bhd vehicle failed to dupe the authorities, resulting in his arrest along with 15 Myanmar nationals.
 
Perlis Anti-Smuggling Unit officers last night detained the "tekong darat" and the illegal immigrants after a two kilometre high speed chase along the Jalan Kampung Syed Omar near here.
 
The van carrying the illegal immigrants which bears a Telekom Bhd sticker was also seized.
 
Anti-Smuggling Unit operation commander for Chuping, Inspektor Muhd Azhari Chik, who led the operation said the Telekom sticker was believed to have been used as a ruse to confuse the authorities.
 
"The tekong darat could had probably tried to disguise the van in such a way so that the illegal immigrants would appeared to us as Telekom workers," he said.
 
Muhd Azhari, who was speaking to reporters at the Anti-Smuggling Unit camp in Chuping after the operation said the van was rented by the 28 year old local man from Kampung Simpang Empat.
 
He said the man would be charged for harbouring illegal immigrants under Section 56(1)(d) of the Immigration Act 1959/63 which carries a maximum compound of RM3,000 for each illegal immigrants.
 
The illegal immigrants were detained for entering the country without proper travelling document under Section 6(3) of the same Act pending their deportation order.
 
Recalling the incident, Muhd Azhari said the enforcement officers received a public tip-off about the "tekong darat" and the illegal immigrants at 8.30 pm.
 
They spotted the van as it was moving out of a secluded area at a nearby secondary forest and gave chase after the driver failed to stop after ordered to do so.
 
Muhd Azhari said the van however stopped after two kilometre, probably because the driver realised he cannot outrun the enforcement officers' four wheel-drive vehicle.
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The Times of India - June 06, 2001.
Myanmar dissidents demand scrutiny of failed talks
BANGKOK: Secret talks between democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi and Myanmar's military regime have failed to make any head way and should now be opened to public scrutiny, a Myanmar dissident group on Tuesday.
 
"The progress over the last eight months of dialogue has been virtually non-existent," the All-Burma Students Democratic Front (ABSDF) said in a statement.
 
The Thailand-based activist group called on the opposition National League for Democracy (NLD) and the ruling State Peace and Development Council to reveal details of the contacts which began last October.
 
"We ask the NLD and SPDC to open up the talks so the people of Burma and the world can see if there is progress" said spokesman Sonny Mahinder.
 
"The current talks are not open. People are frustrated waiting for information while human rights abuses and forced labour are still occurring inside the country."
 
The ABSDF accused the military regime of staging religious and racial riots, which have broken out in recent weeks to "distract people's attention from current political and economic problems."
 
"The people of Burma should have access to information about the real progress of the talks," it said, urging foreign governments and rights organisations to maintain pressure on the SPDC.
 
UN envoy Razali Ismail ended a four-day mission to Myanmar on Monday where he met with Aung San Suu Kyi and top junta leaders in a bid to revive the reconciliation talks they embarked on in 2000.
 
The dialogue, the first between the two warring sides since 1994, initially raised hopes that 40 years of military rule might finally be coming to an end in Myanmar.
 
But in the last few months the contacts appear to have hit a road block, as elements within the junta balked at the prospect of introducing democratic reforms.
 
The government's decision to allow Razali to visit last week, after a worryingly long absence of five months, was hailed as a sign that the reconciliation process was back on track.
 
But eyebrows were raised again on Monday when the Malaysian diplomat left Yangon without any of the prizes he was expected to be handed - including the release of a batch of political prisoners and permission to release a statement on the direction and intent of the talks.
 
Instead, UN chief Kofi Annan later made a vaguely-worded statement which said only that the visit by his special envoy had been "timely" and that he hoped it would help reconcile the military rulers and opposition.
 
Dissident groups and the nation's many ethnic minorities, whose support will be crucial in any transition to democracy, have made increasingly loud calls for light to be shed on the secret dialogue.
 
"It's difficult for everyone else to have the patience and forbearance to deal with this situation when we don't have a great deal of information to go on," said one diplomat in Yangon after Razali's departure.
 
"The mood here is one that we have to be very patient and we have a long way to go," he added. (AFP)
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Bangkok Post - June 06, 2001.
Burmese columnist panned for misinterpreting facts
Articles no cause for alarm, say experts
Bhanravee Tansubhapol
 
Thailand should not easily be agitated by "profane" articles in the Burmese media because they had misinterpreted Thai history, historians told a seminar yesterday.
 
The Burmese columnist Ma Tin Win of the Institute of Education misinterpreted the implications of the Bowring Treaty, which Siam signed with Britain in 1855 during the reign of King Mongkut, said Chalong Soontravanich, a history professor at Chulalongkorn University.
 
Many historians and several historical writings acknowledged that the Bowring Treaty caused a dilemma for Thai sovereignty and freedom of monetary management, he said.
 
"But this concern was solved by King Chulalongkorn, who later amended the controversial part of the treaty by signing other treaties in which Thailand sacrificed portions of its land to France and Britain in exchange for extra-territorial rights and tax rights being abolished," Mr Chalong said.
 
In her article "Never Been Enslaved But a Real Slave" published May 21 in the official mouthpiece New Light of Myanmar, Ma Tin Win misinterpreted the late historian Rong Sayamanond's statement that the Bowring Treaty cost Siam its power of jurisdiction and the right to use money.
 
Mr Chalong said the manner in which she'd written her piece showed she was only a columnist, not a historian, so Thai readers should be more thoughtful and not so easily agitated.
 
"We have also condemned others in history so the article should be a mirror to warn ourselves. Of course it hurts to be spoken of like that, but it's like a diamond which can be viewed from many sides. We could insteadask why Ma Tin Win hates Thaisinstead of the British, who colonised Burma."Thamsook Numnonda, a retired history professor from Silapakorn University, said Burma signed a treaty with Britain in 1826 surrendering the opium trade to the British, while King Rama III banned the opium trade.
 
She said King Rama IV, or King Mongkut, signed the Bowring Treaty which allowed opium to be traded by the British and Chinese in 1855 in order to contain the opium problem and tax opium money.
 
"Ma Tin Win simply chose to voice those facts which suited her own assumptions," Ms Thumsook said.
 
Suthachai Yimprasert, another Chulalongkorn University history professor, disagreed with the Thai government's protest over the article.
 
"Our bilateral relations have been deteriorating due to conduct by both sides. We should not take up this article and retaliate."The real problem, he said, stemmed from a too-close association with Burma. Rangoon was allowed to enter the same regional grouping without tending to its human rights record.
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The Nation - June 06, 2001.
Views on freedom of _expression_
 
The International Freedom of _expression_ Exchange (Ifex), an alliance of more than 50 non-governmental organisations worldwide, yesterday opened its annual conference with discussions about access to information in the region.
 
The meeting was themed "Bringing Down the Walls: Open Information for the New Millennium".
 
Sheila Coronel of the Philippine Centre for Investigative Journalists (PCIJ) said that the Philippines, Thailand and Cambodia had the best access to information within the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean) while Burma had the worst.
 
Surveying Asean countries about the availability to the public of various "public" records, she found that Singapore and Burma had the most secrecy.
 
Coronel said that although Singapore was considered an open society, getting access to certain information was extremely difficult. For example, records concerning government officials, military personnel and alien information were deemed too confidential.
 
Burma scored lowest in the region in all categories, while the Philippines was considered the most accessible country.
 
Sharing the lessons of Thailand's information act, Kavi Chongkittavorn, president of the Thailand Journalists' Association and managing editor of The Nation, said that in the three years since the law had been introduced, the government had become more transparent and more accountable.
 
"It has served as a deterrent because any person who commits malfeasance can be traced," he said, adding that the law also empowered ordinary citizens, especially those in rural areas.
 
However, Kavi said that a culture of secrecy still persisted in Thailand, as government officials continued to withhold information they were supposed to give out to the public. "They do not understand that giving out information when needed is part of their service," he said.
 
Kavi said that neighbouring countries such as Indonesia and Cambodia were learning from Thailand's experience of it and its implications for society.
 
He said that the current government had issued several executive orders instructing 8,477 state agencies in all provinces to comply with the law without delay.
 
He said it was estimated that only 45 per cent of the government agencies were ready to give information to the public.
 
Other Ifex panellists included Ken Battacharjee of Article 19 and Sunanda Deshapria and Waruna Karunathilaka of Sri Lanka's Free Media Movement.
 
Over the next two days Ifex, meeting in Bangkok, will discuss challenges to the media in newly democratic states, especially journalistic ethics and the concentration of media ownership.
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The Nation - June 06, 2001.
Twisted view of history
Vorapun Srivoranart
 
Historians argued yesterday that controversial articles run recently in the Burmese state-run press insulting past Thai monarchs were fraught with "historical anachronisms" and pointed to serious problems for the bilateral relationship.
 
In the past, Thailand and Thai history were not principal concerns of the Burmese public, whose chief enemy was the British, said Chalong Soontravanich, from Chulalongkorn University's history department.
 
However, articles allegedly penned by Ma Tin Win, from a Burmese educational institution, in the New Light of Myanmar, showed explicit feelings of hatred toward the Thai public and sent a "dangerous signal" as far as people-to-people ties on both sides were concerned, Chalong said.
 
He said the articles offered a gross misinterpretation of the history of Thailand and of Southeast Asia as a whole. For example, Rama IV could never have been personally involved in the negotiations leading up to the Bowring Treaty between Siam - as Thailand was then known - and Britain, as protocol did not allow it.
 
He dismissed the allegation that the former King had given greater importance to the throne than he had to the nation. "At that time, there was no such thing as the nation-state and, therefore, the monarchy and the Kingdom could be referred to interchangeably."
 
"She [Ma Tin Win] chose to say only what she wanted to say, and chose to ignore what she wanted to ignore," said Thamsook Numnonda, a retired historian from Silpakorn University. Thamsook said one should not draw a parallel between the time Siam acceded to the Bowring Treaty in 1855 and when Burma, then the Hanthawaddy kingdom, signed an accord with the British in 1826.
 
"The social and historical contexts were completely different," involving disparate factors and strategies," said Thamsook. Moreover, the Burmese king in 1867 even signed an agreement with the British granting the latter extra-territorial rights in the wake of a palace coup.
 
Suthachai Yimprasert, also of Chulalongkorn University's history department said while it was true that history was subject to individual interpretation, the articles were a special case since they occurred in the context of interstate tension and constituted a deliberate attempt to hurt the Thai people.
 
He accused successive Thai governments of showing excessive friendliness towards Rangoon, while turning a blind eye to human rights and political repression.
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Myanmar's Bilateral Trade With ASEAN Members Up
2001.06.06 14:05:38 
 
YANGON, June 6 (Xinhuanet) -- Myanmar's bilateral trade with five  other member countries of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) -- Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and  the Philippines -- totaled 313.6 million U.S. dollars in the first two months of this year, up 22.9 percent from the same period of  2000.
According to the latest figures published by the country's  Central Statistical Organization, these trade accounted for 40.7  percent of Myanmar's total foreign trade during the two-month  period with its import from these ASEAN members amounting to 181. 47 million dollars, while its export to them valued at 132.13  million dollars. The trade deficit stood at 49.34 million dollars.
Of these five ASEAN members, Myanmar's trade with Thailand  accounted for the highest volume with 125.48 million dollars or 16. 3 percent of the country's 769.15 million dollars' total foreign  trade.
It was followed by that with Singapore which took up 123.26  million dollars or 16 percent. Myanmar's trade with Malaysia and  Indonesia stood at 39.25 million dollars and 24 million dollars, respectively.
In 2000, Myanmar's total foreign trade, including the border  trade, totaled 4.086 billion dollars, of which its bilateral trade with the five other ASEAN members amounted to 1.651 billion  dollars, accounting for 40.4 percent of the country's total  foreign trade during the year. 
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Myanmar Calls For Enhanced Cooperation to Overcome Environmental Problems
2001.06.06 13:44:42 
 
YANGON, June 6 (Xinhuanet) -- Myanmar leader Lieutenant-General  Khin Nyunt Wednesday called for enhanced international cooperation and efforts to overcome environmental problems that the world is  facing.
Khin Nyunt, first secretary of the Myanmar State Peace and  Development Council, made the call at a ceremony here marking the  World Environment Day.
Noting that all forms of life on earth are interlinked and  intertwined in the form of web, he warned a collapse in one system will impact the other and eventually lead to the collapse of the  entire ecosystem.
The planet earth is very fragile with limited capacity to  endure and tolerate environmentally detrimental human actions and  pressures, the Myanmar leader said, adding that over-exploitation  of earth's resources, huge generation of solid wastes, gaseous  wastes and wastewater are damaging the ecosystems and posing  serious threats to the environment.
Khin Nyunt emphasized the key role of international cooperation in addressing the current environmental issues, and appreciated  the efforts of the international organizations, particularly the U. N. Environment Program, and governments for successfully  developing many important multilateral environmental conventions.
He called on all nations, big or small, rich or poor, developed or developing, to work together to make the world a cleaner and  safer place to live.
In this respects, he stressed the need for strong support from  the developed countries in terms of technical transfer and  financial assistance to help the developing countries promote  environmentally sound technologies and strengthen environmental  institution for implementing environmental programs.
With regard to Myanmar, he said the country, which is a  developing nation, is doing its best to become a modern and  developed state, paying due consideration to environmental factors.
Myanmar is green with more than 50 percent of its land covered  with forest. The land area of reserved and protected forest  amounts to more than 104,000 square kilometers.
At present, there are 30 sanctuaries and 4 national parks in  the country to protect the natural environment as well as to  protect and preserve wildlife, fauna and flora.
There are over 3,410 kinds of botanical plants in the country,  of which trees take up 2,700 kinds, bamboo 96 kinds and cane 36  kinds. There are also more than 1,240 kinds of birds. 
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Myanmar Leader Stresses Need for Strong Armed Forces
2001.06.06 12:33:46 
 
YANGON, June 6 (Xinhuanet) -- The Myanmar Armed Forces must always remain a strong defense organization, no matter what political and economic system a government practices, said the country's top leader Senior-General Than Shwe Tuesday.
 
Than Shwe, chairman of the Myanmar State Peace and Development Council and Commander-in-Chief of the Defense Services, made the remarks when addressing the country's War Veterans Organization ( WVO) Conference, official newspaper The New Light of Myanmar reported Wednesday.
He called for upholding three main national causes: non- disintegration of the union, non-disintegration of national solidarity and perpetuation of sovereignty. 
 
The Myanmar WVO, a non-governmental organization, was founded in December 1975 and the Myanmar WV Law was enacted in August 1989.
The Myanmar WV Central Organizing Committee was reformed in October 1998.
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The International Herald Tribune
Wednesday, June 6, 2001
Burma Sanctions Sputter 
Elizabeth Olson New York Times Service 
Case Tests the Resolve of UN Labor
 
GENEVA Nearly all governments agree that smooth, seamless international trade is good and mistreatment of workers is bad.
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But when free trade and labor standards intersect, as anti-globalization protests in Seattle and elsewhere have illustrated, the results can be surprisingly troublesome.
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Look no further than efforts by many governments to take Burma to task for flouting international labor policies.
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In November, the International Labor Organization, a UN affiliate based in Geneva with 175 member countries, called for stiff measures against Burma because the military government forced villagers to do unpaid construction work. Initially, the European Union, the United States and other countries indicated that they would impose sanctions on Burma. But a new report by the labor organization failed to identify a single country that had responded to its call with any concrete action.
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The reason is that Burma belongs to the World Trade Organization, and sanctions with some sting - such as a ban on textile exports - would violate WTO rules.
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The U.S. State Department's annual report on human rights abuse listed Burma as one of the three worst offenders. The United States suspended trade preferences for Burma years ago, and Americans are banned from investing there. But there is only limited support in Congress for additional sanctions, in part because the Burmese government has reopened a dialogue with the country's most prominent dissident, Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, and the United States continues to be Burma's largest export market.
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Burma's trade with both the United States and the European Union has soared recently. According to Eurostat, the Union's statistical agency, the volume of trade between the 15 countries and Burma shot up from E222.6 million ($188.3 million) in December 1999 to E404.3 million in December 2000. The Commerce Department reports a near-quadrupling of U.S. imports from Burma since 1997 to a total of $412 million last year.
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Oddly, that growth has occurred in part because the United States has cold-shouldered Burma, also known as Myanmar, diplomatically. There have been no negotiations on a bilateral quota for apparel, such as the ones the United States has negotiated with most other developing countries. Manufacturers from China and elsewhere have set up shop in Burma specifically to exploit that loophole.
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The labor organization's fruitless effort to take a strong stand against Burma's practices has shed a harsh light on its lack of enforcement power. At a March meeting, U.S. officials worried about the group's ineffectiveness.
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"In the absence of democratic reforms in Burma, the practical ability of an ILO presence there to assure that forced labor has been eliminated nationwide is highly problematic," Charles Spring, a Labor Department official, told the group. 
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The Indian Express - June 05, 2001.
Into Myanmar on tonga, rocking with Kareena
Thanks to ‘open’ border, Indians shop in Myanmar for cheap consumer goods, liqueurs
Sankarshan Thakur
 
Tamu (Myanmar), June 5: WE rode into one of the world’s most obstinate military dictatorships with ten-rupee tickets on a ramshackle tonga. The border guard who signed our permits on the Moreh Frontier called himself Ping Pong Taa and his bearing was only a little more military than his name. He wore his outsize sergeant’s cap fashionably askew, in the manner of an MTV veejay, and he was playing a Kareena Kapoor song on his Chinese mini-stereo—‘aa rang de dupatta mera...haan rang de dupatta mera...’’ Not quite the officially designated bilateral theme, but you couldn’t blame Ping Ping Taa for not trying: he had the volume turned so high all of India and Myanmar could hear.
 
‘‘Latest,’’ he proudly smiled, revealing what could only have been pewter dentures between other rotting teeth, ‘‘Lovely, no?’’
 
It was raining and the horse neighed and bucked angrily down the slippery strip from no man’s land into Tamu. Every time the animal skittered off the road and dug its hooves indignantly, its Myanmarese owner turned and jested in broken Hindi. ‘‘India hai naa, India,’ he said, ‘‘Hum Burma kaa, hamara ghoda India ka, udhar se aataa hai, open border se, iska to permit bhi nahin maang hai.’’ (It’s India. I am Burmese, my horse is Indian, it comes from the other side, across the open border, he doesn’t even require a permit).
 
The horse was grossly whipped and underfed, like all horses yoked to carts everywhere else, but if it had a voice, it would perhaps also have complained about the unbearable burden of slaving in an alien land. It jerked and pulled but half an hour or so later it deposited us quite safely in Tamu town, the first Myanmarese post beyond the ‘‘open’’ border.
 
The famed bamboo curtain is more than just a little ajar here and the view out may offer better perspectives on what’s happening across the border than you may find in India itself. Tamu is nothing but a hardcore trading depot, even more aggressive in purpose now that the WTO is in place. The town’s spine is two long columns of squat shops spilling over with all manner of goods, mostly Chinese and cheap: garments, bolts of silk, electronics, toys, cosmetics, platoons of plastic durables, crockery, cutlery, pornography. Ask for it and the Tamu retailer will produce it for you.
 
The train of goods from Tamu in Noreh and Manipur is long and overloaded. Tongas, such as the one we took, and old ford station wagons form an unbroken chain of Indians emptying their cash in Tamu for goods. Manipur is meant to be a strictly dry state but barely a hour off its limits you will find the most versatile liquor stalls and the most well-stocked: the best Scotch in a dozen or more brands, the most delectable wines, liquers so rare often neither seller no buyer may know how esoteric or prized they may be.
 
And all of it travels rather smoothly and regularly to ‘‘dry’’ Manipur; it is possible in Imphal to blend the most exotic cocktails and it doesn’t always have to be done under the table; you just pay a little premium, carting costs from Tamu or Moreh.
But stuff more lethal than just excess alcohol is exported out of here into India. In the alleys and bylanes of Tamu bustle the arms bazaars that feed insurgency in the north east. Chinese and Czech automatic weapons, rocket launchers, grenades, mines, remote explosive devices.
 
‘‘It is an open market on the other side,’’ an Assam Rifles major had told us on the Indian side of the border post at Moreh, ‘‘We know it but we can do little about it. It is an understatement to call the border porous, it leaks more than it plugs. We can barely keep tabs on what we call the legal trade coming in from Myanmar, there is just so much that comes in.’’
 
A few minutes at the international turnstiles will tell you how heavily loaded even the legal trade is against India just a one-day traffic of goods pouring in. All India seems to export is cash and ill-bred horses and songs Kareena sings: that is music to Myanmarese ears, or at least to Ping Ping Taa’s.
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