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Jean Pearce's column on Burma



(Some time ago we tried to explain to Jean Pearce why not to go to Burma as
an ordinary tourist.  She wrote back saying that she was unimpressed and
unconvinced by our case.  This is sadly typical of the situation in Japan
these days -- Daw Suu is the problem, and Burma is set to take off
economically, if only the NLD would not oppose progress.  One major
correction -- you will not learn anything true about Daw Suu by reading the
Japan Times.  

Ah, Burma -- so unworldly.  

We do thank Jean Pearce for the unique suggestion to solve Burma's
educational problems -- just strip the gold and jewels from Shwedagon.  

Both Jean Pearce and the Japan Times editors can be reached at:

E-mail          <jtric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Fax:             +81  3- 3453-5456

By mail:  The Japan Times, Tokyo 108 - 0023 (with a stamped self-addressed
envelope if you want Jean Pearce to reply to you.)



JEAN PEARCE
Getting things done

Retrospect

What can I tell you about my trip to Myanmar? First, there is the natural
friendliness of the people, especially their always-ready, gentle smiles
that seem to reflect a sustained inner contentment. Next, the wonders of
Pagan, a multi-kilometer landscape of pagodas, stupas and temples
constructed between 1057 and 1227. Had the Western world been more aware of
the East, Pagan would surely have expanded the list of the world's seven
wonders. Countrywide, Myanmar reflects its reverence for Buddha in its
impressive architecture. Yangon's Shwedagon, said to be the world's largest
Buddhist temple, is reported to have some 60 tons of gold in its domes and
decorations, and the top glistens with 5,450 diamonds.

However, most of the expectations generally fulfilled by economic viability
are awaiting some distant future. Trains are slow and infrequent. On the
rough and narrow highways, cars must drive on the shoulders if they are to
pass safely, and drivers must always be aware of ox carts, horse-drawn
carriages and bicycles, the latter often fitted with seats accommodating
several passengers, perhaps three generations being peddled together. The
telephone system is chancy and a fax to Tokyo was quoted at V10,000. For
reasonably reliable electricity, hotels in some cities use their own
generators, which are turned off after midnight; old electrical systems are
unrepairable. Major cities suffer in comparison with photos in pre-World War
II travel/history books; the countryside is unchanged.


What of Aung San Sun Kyi, people ask. You will know more from reading your
newspaper here. We only learned that her I house was "over there, " with a
vague waving of a hand. Yet we could see CNN on hotel TVs, and once, in a
hotel lobby, we were surprised when an interview with her was aired. The
local people who were there watched it avidly. They might not have
understood the language, but they certainly knew Suu Kyi. The
government-approved newspaper, The New Light of Myanmar, has a daily report
from various areas titled "Wishes of the masses." Included among the nine
wishes in one issue were "Crushing Suu Kyi and NLD [the National League for
Democracy, her party], that are trying to get State power by short cuts,"
and "deporting Suu Kyi, who has no wish for economic progress and
development of the people of Myanmar."

Should you visit Myanmar? Many say no. Consequently, the government's
promotion of the 1996 Year of Tourism was not successful; only about a third
of the expected number of visitors arrived. After extensive government
investment, what had been anticipated as a source of good will and hard
currency proved to be counterproductive.

Still, personally, I would suggest that you go. Visitors provide a window to
another world for the people of Myanmar. I also think it would be advisable
to promote invitations for officials to attend meetings and conferences in
other countries. Let them see how Myanmar compares with its neighbors and
the world. Myanmar was once one of Asia's wealthiest countries - and it
could be again.

And what an adventure you will have if you choose to go! Start with a
morning arrival and a bumpy trip by road -1he final stage is by sedan chairs
with four carriers - to the Golden Rock, a precariously balanced sacred
stone that male believers continue to layer with gold leaf. Women can only
watch One approaches all sacred places barefoot (no shoes, no socks) and
usually by several hundreds of steps. Spend a day on Lake Inle with its
canal villages and floating farmlands. You can see hill people at stops
along the way and sort through antiques, fabrics and curiosities at village
markets. See Maymyo; a British summer retreat near Mandalay. But go soon.
Sometime here will be changes that will open the country. Then the
otherworldliness that so enchants today's visitors will likely disappear as
the country hurries to catch un with its neighbors and once again become a
leading nation of ASia.

Finally, I often felt that sincce Buddha renounced worldly possessions, he
would havel ittle use for the adornments lavished on his places of worship.
How much better, I thought, if some of that gold went to educating Myanmar's
children, especially in the villages wehre schools are few, remembering, of
course, that education depends on what is taught.


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