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Ralph Lauren and Warnaco Working Ha



Subject: Ralph Lauren and Warnaco Working Hand in Hand with Brutal  Dictators in Burma

National Labor Committee
Education Fund in Support of Worker and Human Rights in Central America
275 7th Ave.
New York, NY 10001
Phone: 212-242-3002
Fax: 212-242-3821

June 13, 1997
Urgent Action Alert/Burma

Ralph Lauren and Warnaco Working Hand in Hand with Brutal Dictators in Burma

U.S. Apparel Imports from Burma Increase as Repression Escalates

Ralph Lauren's Chaps men's shirts and casual shorts (which the National
Labor Committee purchased in Sterns) are being made under martial law in
Burma.  Garment workers are paid just 6 cents an hour in a booming export
assembly industry which is controlled by, and directly funds, the vicious
Burmese military regime.

In fact, Ralph Lauren, Warnaco, J. Crew, Lee, Arrow Shirts, Leslie Fay and
other U.S. apparel companies and retailers, including Sterns', J.C. Penny
and Sears, were increasing their production in Burma throughout 1996--just
as President Clinton announced that as a result of "a constant and
continuing pattern of severe repression by the State Law and Order
Restoration Council (SLORC) in Burma," he was compelled to impose a ban on
all new investments there.  In February 1997, the U.S. State Department
reported that under the military dictatorship in Burma, "severe repression
of human rights increased during 1996... including extrajudicial
killings...rape...disappearances...arbitrary arrests...and physical abuse."
President Clinton also linked the military regime in Burma to narco-trafficking.

The Democratic forces in Burma are requesting international economic
sanctions until the military is forced to relinquish its dictatorial grip
over the lives of Burma's 47 million people.

Increases in U.S. apparel imports from Burma directly follow this rise in
repression.  In 1996, U.S. apparel imports from Burma surged 38 percent,
totaling $89.7 million ? a $24.6 million increase over the $65.1 million
reported in 1995.  Between 1992 and 1996, Burma's apparel exports to the
U.S. increased 330 percent.  In 1996, U.S. apparel companies imported 18
million garments made in Burma.

These imports continue to soar.  The first two months of 1997 saw a 50.3
percent increase over the year before.  These garments were being sewn in
December 1996 at the very moment when "the military regime suppressed
protesters in a bloody crackdown.  Tanks remain on the streets..."
(Economist Intelligence Unit, April 29, 1997)

It is appropriate to ask: Why is it that the U.S. apparel industry is always
on the wrong side?  Why should the U.S. people allow these companies to turn
the U.S. into a dumping ground for these sweatshop-s controlled by the
Burmese military and drug lords?  In fact, U.S. companies take in a full 65
percent of Burma's worldwide apparel exports.

According to the Economic Intelligence Unit, "Myanmar has sought to position
itself as a destination for foreign garment manufacturers..."  The U.S.
companies like what they see.  "According to foreign investors... among the
top attractions of the country (is the) low cost labour force."  (IRU, May
1, 1997.  Apparently, the fact that the workers are totally stripped of
their rights under martial law is also attractive to the U.S. companies
contracting there.

Ralph Lauren Stands to Pocket More than $489 Million

At this time, as Ralph Lauren company stocks are being offered for sale ?
which could earn Ralph Lauren himself over $489 million? it would be
especially appropriate for Ralph Lauren to stand up and side with democracy
and human rights, and break with the dictators of Burma.

Human rights activists have already successfully pressured a number of
apparel companies, including Levi Strauss, Liz Claiborne, Disney, Eddie
Bauer, Macy's, Columbia Sportswear, Oshkosh B'Gosh and Reebok to pull out of
Burma.

Warnaco is a Special Case.  Warnaco Owns the Ralph Lauren "Chaps" Label

Warnaco recently pulled out of the White House Task Force to Eliminate
Sweatshop Abuses, explaining that they feared independent monitoring of
their factories (and those of their contractors) might lead to public
disclosure of trade secrets, which could be damaging in such a highly
competitive industry.  At the time, the National Labor Committee was
surprised by Warnaco's logic, since they make underwear and shirts, and not
spy satellites.  But now it is quite clear.  What Warnaco really fears from
independent monitoring is that the U.S. people would find out where and
under what conditions Warnaco clothing is being made.

Combating Sweatshops:

The National Labor Committee announces a National Day of Conscience to End
Sweatshops on October 4, 1997.  The Day of Conscience is being co-sponsored
by the United Methodist Church Women's Division, UNITE, People of Faith
Network, Congressman Bernie Sanders (I-VT) and many other organizations.

Unless there is movement, Ralph Lauren, Warnaco and other U.S. companies
continuing to produce in Burma will be among the companies focused on.

The National Labor Committee will also organize a Holiday Season of
Conscience, and will release a list of the worse 30 companies which continue
to violate human rights.

http://www2.gol.com/users/brelief/Index.htm